Shuster’s brings screams for ice cream back to downtown Macon

Jonathan Shuster grew up with so many stories about his family’s ice cream shop that he could practically taste a scoop of vanilla on a sugar cone without having one in front of him. 

His grandparents, Jack and Libby Shuster, opened Shuster’s Confectionery 70 years ago in Newark, New Jersey. It closed its doors in 1963, eight years before Shuster was born.

But hot fudge sundaes and banana splits have been dancing on his taste buds his entire life. His father, Sandy, and his Uncle Bobby worked for the family business as teenagers. They were more than willing to share their sweet memories at family gatherings.

“They didn’t have two nickels to rub together, so they lived in the back of the shop,’’ Shuster said. “My dad was the first person in the family to buy a car. He put us all through school. He and my uncle would tell stories about Shuster’s.’’

Shuster, 54, had a hopscotch career after he graduated from Rutgers University in 1993 with a degree in English, communications and film.

He moved to South Florida and worked in marketing for Office Depot. He also helped make music videos, including one for the hip-hop group 2 Live Crew. He later interviewed musicians and wrote articles for the Mars Music website. Among his subjects was Nathan East, the bass player for Eric Clapton. He is a musician himself, having played the guitar since he was 12.

He moved to Macon in 2019 with his wife Tennille and daughters Ella and Saybel. Tennille is a graphic design professor and chair of the Art and Design Department at Mercer. (And, yes, she is named after Toni Tennille of the 1970s music duo Captain & Tennille.)

Shuster’s career pivoted again not long after a family outing to the now-closed Cherry Street Scoops ice cream shop in downtown Macon. Then came his revelation.

“We had always talked about one day resurrecting Shuster’s Confectionery,’’ he said. 

Shuster heard downtown’s collective scream for ice cream all the way up Walnut Street, down Mulberry and clear over to Plum. But he didn’t jump in without kicking the tires and weighing the risks and rewards of launching an independent, family-owned business. 

He enrolled in NewTown Macon’s Entrepreneur Academy, where he learned how to develop a well-researched and comprehensive business plan. He talked to local business owners and scouted possible venues.

A leap of faith led him to the top of Poplar in the former location of Philosophie, an upscale wine and charcuterie bar, a half block down the hill from City Hall.

The family rebrand — some 885 miles and six decades later — is Shuster’s Candy & Creamery. It offers hand-scooped ice cream, nostalgic candy and almost enough of a sugar high to flip the switch on all those lights on Poplar Street during the annual Macon Christmas Light Extravaganza.

After a soft opening — no pun intended — on July 23, the city’s newest ice cream shop officially opened a week later.

Shuster hung a framed photograph of his grandparents by the door.

“Obviously, there’s still that newness, that honeymoon period,’’ Shuster said. “But I feel like we’re settling into a good spot and getting a lot of great word-of-mouth traffic.’’

Shuster’s offers 24 flavors of ice cream. Several are rotated. Stellar coffee and salted caramel brownie are among the most popular.

There is a stretch of assorted candy hugging the wall that is deep enough to cater to a sweet tooth convention. There are old-fashioned varieties, like jelly beans, candy cigarettes and Chunkies. There are 15 kinds of saltwater taffy and a half-dozen soda choices. 

The waffle cones are made fresh every day, so the folks living in the upstairs lofts can wake up and smell the batter.

Shuster said his family wanted the decor to represent a modern twist on a nostalgic ice cream parlor, with stools, tables and chairs.

“We have old-school napkin holders,’’ he said. “It has a 1950s vibe.’’

Tennille Shuster and her husband of 23 years are co-owners in the new venture. She put her artistic talents into motion, painting and wallpapering the interior. She also created all the logo and design work.

There are plans to apply for a beer and wine permit, utilizing the Philosophie wine bar that has been converted to a soda fountain. 

Shuster said that while there has been a willingness to experiment and try different combinations, he is making an effort not to “overwhelm people with choices — we are trying to find that balance.’’

Of the 16 restaurants participating in Macon Restaurant Week Sept. 12-20, Shuster’s is the new kid on the block. The shop is offering a sweet special — eight scoops of ice cream, two spoons and waffle cone cookies for $10.

“We are trying to make people happy,’’ he said. “They come in happy, but we want to make them happy on their way out, too. Everyone is greeted with a smile. It’s a genuine smile. We want to engage with people and get to know them.’’

Shuster said when he interviews prospective employees, there is one question he always asks: “What is your favorite ice cream memory?”